Showing posts with label f8. Show all posts
Showing posts with label f8. Show all posts

Friday, 9 October 2015

Trees

Photographs of trees in colour, black-white and various weather conditions. These photogpahs have been taken in Pamber Forest, Kew Gardens, Lake District.

Pamber Forset
 Pamber Forset
 Pamber Forset

 Motimer - On snowy morning


Lake District: Photograph taken near Lake Buttermere, edited to convert the image in black & white


Lake District: Mist over the mountains
Photograph taken from the roadside just before going to the Hardknot Pass, Lake District


Lake District: Track to the Mountains
Photograph taken at Ravenglass & Eskdale railway. I took this photograph while I was sat in the train, the camera was hand held.


Lake District: Tress by the Lake
While walking along the lake, I noticed these fallen trees. I took this photo at a low angle to get the water, mountains and the sky


To read on how to photograph landscapes click on the links:
Bhupinder Ghatahora
Ghatahora Photography
https://twitter.com/Ghatahora
https://www.pinterest.com/ghatahoraphotog/

Saturday, 9 May 2015

Understanding Apertures


What is Aperture?

Aperture is one of the three main functions in photography along with the shutter and the ISO.

The aperture is a ‘circular hole’ within the lens and is known as the ‘diaphragm’. To create an image, light passes through the ‘diaphragm’ and travels into the camera image sensor/film creating the image. The amount the ‘diaphragm’ is open to allow light through is measured in f-stops, i.e. f2.8, f4, f5.6, f11, f16, etc.

Beginners often get confused on what ‘f’ numbers mean and how they work. As a general rule: the smaller the ‘f’ number, the larger the opening of the aperture. The larger ‘f’ number, the smaller the opening of the aperture.

Therefore, f2.8 is considered as a large aperture. At f2.8 the diaphragm of the lens is larger and allows more light to come through and fall on the image sensor/film.

At f16, the aperture is small. The diaphragm of the lens is small limiting the amount of light passing through the lens and falling on the image sensor/film.

The below diagram shows the aperture in relation to its ‘f’ numbers: (not to scale)

                       



 How does the aperture work?

Just think about the human eye; the pupil controls the amount of light passing further into the eye by shrinking or expanding.

The aperture works exactly the same way. The amount of light is controlled by changing the f-stops on the camera. As you can see from the diagram, f2.8 allows much more light in than f32.

If the aperture is changed from one ‘f’ stop ‘either way’, it doubles or halves the size of aperture as well as the amount of light passing through.

Moving from f2.8 to f4 the amount of light is halved.


                            


Moving from f8 to f5.6the amount of light is doubled.

                         



When changing the aperture either way, it also affects the shutter speed (the amount of time the shutter is open) and the ‘Depth of Field’- (DOF is what controls the image sharpness).


Aperture and Focus

Choosing a large ‘f’ number such as f22 or f32 will bring all the foreground and background in focus. This aperture setting is always best to use when you want everything to be sharp and in focus.

This photograph has been taken using f22, as you can see everything is in focus from the foreground to the background.





On the other hand, a small ‘f’ numbers such as f2.8, f4 and f5.6 will blur the background, isolating the subject. This aperture setting is useful to use when you want to have parts of your photograph blurred to add impact as well as for photographing close-ups.

The 1st photograph has been taken using f2.8, as you can see the purple nail varnish bottle is in focus and the rest of the image is blurred. The 2nd photograph has been taken on f5.6.









For cameras that do not have aperture mode, use  ‘Landscape’ mode  for a large DOF.


And for a small DOF use the  ‘Close-up’ or the  ‘Portrait’ mode.






The aperture adds dimension to the photograph by either blurring the background or keeping everything in focus.

                  



Thursday, 2 April 2015

Landscape Photography part 2


Landscape Photography part 1 can be found on the below link. 

http://ghatahoraphotography.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/landscape-photography.html


Landscape photography Part 2

7) Include the Sky

Including the sky makes the photograph more interesting. Most landscapes images will have either a dominant foreground or sky. If you your image does not have one or the other, photograph can end up being boring. If the sky is bland, boring sky, overcast, do not include the sky in your image and place the horizon in the upper third of your shot. However your foreground has to interesting. On the other hand if the sky is filled lots of clouds and colours include it by placing the horizon lower third.


Clouds - horizon on lower third




Sunrise over Loach Lomond -  horizon on upper third





8)     Leading Lines

You may have asked yourself this question, ‘how can lead the viewer’s eye of into the image’?
Here is the answer; there are a number of ways of doing this.
  • Include foreground
  •  Blur the image to create a sense of movement
  • Changing your view point
  • Colours in the landscape: i.e. a field of poppies against the blue sky
Leading lines are one of the best ways into an image which lead the viewers into the photograph. Lines give an image depth, scale and can be a point of interest and create patterns in your image.

Below: Photograph taken at Lake Windmere, Lake District


The image below was taken by pointing the camera up at the top



 
9)     Capturing Movement


When most people think about landscapes they think of calm, peaceful and passive environments – however landscapes are rarely completely still and adding the movement creates the mood, drama, and create a point of interest.
Examples of movement in landscapes are:– moving trees, waves on a beach, water flowing over a waterfall, birds flying overhead, moving clouds, stars etc.

Capturing movement generally means a longer shutter speed, which means more light hitting your camera  sensor. For this reason you will need to use a small Aperture, use a Neutral Density or a Polarization filter or photograph your landscapes at the start or end of the day when there is less light.


Below: Zoomed while taking the photograph




Below: Waves, a faster shutter speed used to freeze the movement of the waves

Below: a close-up of a small waterfall by the road in Scotland. A slow shutter speed used to blur the movement of the water.


10)  Weather

A landscape can change dramatically depending on the weather conditions; choose the right time to photograph.

It’s great to get out on sunny days and photograph landscapes; however an overcast day that is threatening to rain may provide you with a much better opportunity to create an image with great atmosphere and mood.

Look out for storm clouds, mist, sun shining through dark skies, sunsets, sunrises etc. and work with the different elements rather than just waiting for the next clear blue sky day.

Sunrise over Loch Lomond


 
After the storm - Speia toned photograph of the beach after it had stopped raining

I hope this brief insight into Landscape Photography assists you in taking better Landscape photographs.

Bhupinder Ghatahora
Ghatahora Photography
https://twitter.com/Ghatahora


Monday, 10 February 2014

Photographs of Trailing Traffic Lights

It is always fun and interesting to photograph trailing traffic lights, not only that it adds atmosphere to the final images, it's also very colourful and creative. During total darkness, there is obviously no natural light available and these are perfect conditions to photograph trailing lights from cars.
Here are a few simple steps to follow:
Always use a tripod as the exposures will be long and this will avoid camera shake.
Know what settings to use on your camera: -
  • Shutter mode, set your SLR on a slow shutter speeds such as 1/4th, or slower to capture movement. (use this as a guide and adjust the shutter according the the availability of the light.)
  • Aperture Priority mode; set the aperture at f16 (the camera will automatically adjust the shutter speed).
  • For Manual mode, set the aperture at f16 and the shutter speed at 10 seconds. Use this shutter speed as a guide only, as your exposure time may vary depending on the available light. You may either have to increase or decrease the shutter speed depending on the image produced. Also use the camera’s exposure indicator to set the value on 0 as this will give you the correct exposure.

    An exposure indicator is visible through the viewfinder which looks like:

    -2||||1||||0||||1||||2+.
Cameras which do not have the Aperture Priority or Manual mode will often allow selecting different scene settings, such as ‘dusk/dawn’,‘nightlight’ or ‘sunset’ modes. Please choose which suits you and your camera best and the camera will adjust the aperture and shutter accordingly.

Here are some examples of photos of trailing traffic lights.





Once you know how to photograph trailing traffic lights, why not take your photography yo the next level. Try 'zooming' in or out create the bust of lights.





 
Other useful articles on the blog to read: