Bhupinder Ghatahora
Ghatahora Photography
info@ghatahora.co.uk
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Wednesday, 6 November 2019
Monday, 4 November 2019
How to capture Autumn colours
Capture the Autumn Colours
Autumn is one of my favourite seasons for photography as it’s filled with cool nights, misty mornings, golden lighting, dew drops on spider webs, reflections of autumn colours in the water, long shadows and fallen leaves which all create a great atmosphere. But most importantly, the striking colours in the environment.
Move closer to concentrate on detail:
Instead of just photographing wider landscapes, create a much stronger composition by moving closer to the subject. Focus all the attention on a single subject, such as dew drops on leaves, spider webs, leaves, berries, long shadows, etc.
Visit the local park or the woodlands:
The main advantage of living around trees, parks and woodland areas, is that you don’t have to travel far to capture the autumn colours. Most of the woodland locations are easily accessed by public footpaths. Local parks provide plenty of opportunities for close-up nature photography.
The colours at the beginning of autumn can be disappointing, it is advisable to wait till they are rich and vibrant, which is usually at the end of October till end of November. However, keep an eye on your surroundings and keep your gear and equipment ready to capture the best lighting.
Here are a few tips to keep in mind when taking autumn photographs:
Camera settings:
SLR: To photograph Landscapes, set the camera on Aperture Mode at f11 or f16, the camera will adjust the shutter speed accordingly. For Close-up Nature photography, use an aperture of f4 or f5.6. The use of a tripod is recommended as exposures will be long.
Compact Camera: Set the camera on Landscape Mode. For close-ups use mode. These modes are also available on SLRs.
I took the below photograph using my compact camera. The photograph has been changed to sepia using an editing software. Many compact cameras have an inbuilt facility which allows you to change the tone of your image. (This can be found in the menu settings of your camera). I always take two photographs of the same scene, one in colour and other in b/w or sepia.
Framing:
Trees make dominant focal points and create the finest displays, use ‘rule of third’ to frame the scene.
Catch the light:
The warm light at early morning or evening is perfect to capture some stunning autumn photographs, so get up early to photograph the ‘Golden Light’.
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| The Golden bench |
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| Bridge on River Thames |
Instead of just photographing wider landscapes, create a much stronger composition by moving closer to the subject. Focus all the attention on a single subject, such as dew drops on leaves, spider webs, leaves, berries, long shadows, etc.
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| Rain drop on leave |
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| Dried leave |
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| Grass |
Take photographs at a local park or the woodlands.
Photograph wildlife:
Photograph horses in a field or wildlife in your garden. Feed the birds - putting food and water out will encourage birds in your garden so you don’t have to travel far to photograph the wildlife.
Position the sun behind a tree trunk or branches to capture the vibrant colours of the leaves, long shadows and silhouettes
To capture mist, it is necessary to get up at dawn before sunrise or wait till it is just about to set. Rivers, lakes and open fields are the most likely locations to have mist. Exposures can be tricky, set the exposure at +1 stop to prevent the mist or fog being recorded as dull murky grey.
Photograph horses in a field or wildlife in your garden. Feed the birds - putting food and water out will encourage birds in your garden so you don’t have to travel far to photograph the wildlife.
Use backlighting:
Photograph the autumn mist:
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| Man in the mist |
To capture mist, it is necessary to get up at dawn before sunrise or wait till it is just about to set. Rivers, lakes and open fields are the most likely locations to have mist. Exposures can be tricky, set the exposure at +1 stop to prevent the mist or fog being recorded as dull murky grey.
Here is a small list of locations where you can take autumn photographs:
Local Parks;
New Forest - for both autumn colours and wildlife
Kew Gardens – autumn colours
Wakehurst Place – autumn colours
Westonbrit Arboretum (Tetbury, Gloucester, GL8 8QS) – autumn colours
Richmond Park (not far from Kew Gardens) – autumn colours and wildlife (herds of deer)
Bhupinder Ghatahora ABIPP, ARPS, ASWPP
Ghatahora Photography
info@ghatahora.co.uk
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Monday, 28 October 2019
Useful photography definitions - part 2
Exposure/light metre: is a device which is used to measure the amount of light falling or being reflected by the subject
f-stop / f-number: is a sequence of numbers showing the relative apertures, from which the light travels through to the sensor/film. By changing the aperture it halves or doubles the light
Focal plane: is a point (plane) on which a sharp image is formed
Focal length: is the distance between the lens and the sharp image, when the lens is focused for infinity
Focus: is when an image is clear and sharp
Format/frame: is a term given by a camera for the picture area; i.e.. full frame, two thirds
Flare: is the unwanted light which is scattered or reflected within the lens causing the flare
ISO: is short for 'International Standard Organisation' - it is an indication of how sensitive the film or the sensor is to light
Jpeg: is a file format for compressed digital colour image
Kelvin (K): is the measurement of the colour temperature
Manual focus: the camera may not a function to auto-focus the lens, the user has to manually focus the lens by hand to get the image sharp
Noise: is similar to the term 'gain' used for films. Digital noise produces random scattered pixels all over the final image, usually red and blue pixels
Overexposure: is when the too much light has gone through the lens producing a washed out image
Perspective: to give an image the 3-dimensional depth and show distance
Programme/auto mode: is a fully automatic function on the camera where the camera selects the aperture and shutter according to the light and the camera's built-in programme
RAW: image produced by the camera which is unprocessed. A RAW file is uncompressed and are larger files than JPEG files
Rule of thirds: horizontal and vertical lines used to compose a subject placing the horizon on the top/bottom line
Selective focusing: using a shallow depth of field to focus sharply on a selected object in the scene where the other parts of the image are out of focus
Shutter: thin metal/plastic curtains that are at the back of the camera that allows light reaching the film/sensor
Shutter speed: is the length of time for how long the film/sensor is exposed to light
Shutter mode / shutter priority / TV: is a semi-automatic mode where you choose the shutter speed and the camera metre sets the appropriate aperture
Telephoto lens: a lens made to create relatively large images with a focal length shorter than an ordinary lens
TTL: is referred to 'Through the lens' camera reading, i.e. the exposure reading of the light measured by the lens and the flash
Underexposure: is when not enough light has gone through the lens to expose the image, the final image is dark.
Viewfinder: a preview window that allows the user to frame and focus the final image before taking the photograph
Wide angle lens: are lens with short focal length and are used to give a wide angle view
Zoom lens: is when the focal length of the lens is altered by zooming in and out, it is a lens which goes from wide angle to telephoto
f-stop / f-number: is a sequence of numbers showing the relative apertures, from which the light travels through to the sensor/film. By changing the aperture it halves or doubles the light
Focal plane: is a point (plane) on which a sharp image is formed
Focal length: is the distance between the lens and the sharp image, when the lens is focused for infinity
Focus: is when an image is clear and sharp
Format/frame: is a term given by a camera for the picture area; i.e.. full frame, two thirds
Flare: is the unwanted light which is scattered or reflected within the lens causing the flare
ISO: is short for 'International Standard Organisation' - it is an indication of how sensitive the film or the sensor is to light
Kelvin (K): is the measurement of the colour temperature
Manual focus: the camera may not a function to auto-focus the lens, the user has to manually focus the lens by hand to get the image sharp
Noise: is similar to the term 'gain' used for films. Digital noise produces random scattered pixels all over the final image, usually red and blue pixels
Overexposure: is when the too much light has gone through the lens producing a washed out image
Perspective: to give an image the 3-dimensional depth and show distance
Programme/auto mode: is a fully automatic function on the camera where the camera selects the aperture and shutter according to the light and the camera's built-in programme
RAW: image produced by the camera which is unprocessed. A RAW file is uncompressed and are larger files than JPEG files
Rule of thirds: horizontal and vertical lines used to compose a subject placing the horizon on the top/bottom line
Selective focusing: using a shallow depth of field to focus sharply on a selected object in the scene where the other parts of the image are out of focus
Shutter: thin metal/plastic curtains that are at the back of the camera that allows light reaching the film/sensor
Shutter speed: is the length of time for how long the film/sensor is exposed to light
Shutter mode / shutter priority / TV: is a semi-automatic mode where you choose the shutter speed and the camera metre sets the appropriate aperture
Telephoto lens: a lens made to create relatively large images with a focal length shorter than an ordinary lens
TTL: is referred to 'Through the lens' camera reading, i.e. the exposure reading of the light measured by the lens and the flash
Underexposure: is when not enough light has gone through the lens to expose the image, the final image is dark.
Viewfinder: a preview window that allows the user to frame and focus the final image before taking the photograph
Wide angle lens: are lens with short focal length and are used to give a wide angle view
Zoom lens: is when the focal length of the lens is altered by zooming in and out, it is a lens which goes from wide angle to telephoto
Bhupinder Ghatahora ABIPP, ARPS, ASWPP
Ghatahora Photography
info@ghatahora.co.uk
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Saturday, 26 October 2019
Landscapes In Black & White
Landscapes in black & white
Bhupinder Ghatahora ABIPP, ARPS, ASWPP
Ghatahora Photography
Wednesday, 9 October 2019
Before and After
The below image is straight from the camera, no adjustments.
The image below has had global adjustments made to it.
The image below has had global adjustments made to it.
These are the global adjustments that were applied to the whole of the image.
White balance: 3771
Tint: -28
Exposure: 0
Contrast: 0
Highlights: -100
Shadows: +14
Whites: +12
Blacks: -10
Clarity: 0
Vibrance: 0
Saturation: 0
A few local adjustments were made to brighten the people, foreground and background. These adjustments are to be used as guide, each image will be different.
Bhupinder Ghatahora
Ghatahora Photography
info@ghatahora.co.uk
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Monday, 7 October 2019
Useful photohraphy definitions with examples of photographs part 1
Useful Photography definitions
Aperture: is the size of the hole in the lens which combined with the shutter speed, controls how much light gets into the camera.
Aperture mode / Aperture Priority: (AV) the mode that automatically calculates the shutter speed when you choose the aperture you want to use.
Camera shake: is when the camera moves as you press the button, causing the image to be blurred.
Close-up / Macro: means close-up photography and is great to photographs of flowers, bugs, shells and other tiny objects.
Composition: arranging objects in the photographs that look pleasing. Also see Rule of Thirds.
Contrast: is the difference between the bright and the dark areas of the photo. High contrast image will show very dark and very light areas in the same photograph.
Normal Image (balanced contrast):
High Contrast Image:
Low Contrast Image:
Cropping: Cutting of the edges of your image, either by moving in closer to the subject or trimming the edges using photo editing software.
Uncropped Image:
Cropped Image:
Depth of field (DOF): shows the range of components in a scene, front to back that remain sharp. Shallow depth of field makes the objects sharp in the foreground only. Deep DOF makes everything in the image sharp from foreground to the background.
The image below is photographed using Shallow depth of field, using f5.6
The image below is photographed using Deep depth of field, using f16
Correct Exposure:
Under Exposed Image:
Over Exposed Image:
Bhupinder Ghatahora
Ghatahora Photography
info@ghatahora.co.uk
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